The Shoe Cobbler
The history and evolution of the shoe cobbler trade has its origins in the Middle Ages. Cobblers began using basic tools and techniques to craft shoes as a primary product for their customers.
In the 19th century, when the industrial revolution saw the introduction of new tools and materials, as well as the growth of the shoe industry, various changes occurred in the trade which allowed for the development of new shoe styles. Notably, Oxfords gained their popularity at Oxford University in the 1800s, but soon other styles like Derbies, Chelsea boots, Chukkas and Loafers were “invented.”
In the 20th century, the rise of the modern shoe factory catalyzed the decline of the traditional cobbler. Slowly, as technological advancements, globalization, and automation were adopted, the functions of a cobbler were reduced to repairs of heirloom and beloved items with sentimental value. Today, a traditional handmade shoe is a luxury given the near disappearance of shoemakers.
In light of the production capacity of the modern shoe industries, the cobbler now plays the role of a repair and restoration man. But even today, few cobblers have the skill set to work masterfully with materials like leather, cloth ,rubber and plastics. The various skills and methods of leather work, structural construction, stitching, and detailing which were employed all through the 18th and 19th century have nearly been lost.
In spite of the near extinction of the craft, there seems to be a renewed appreciation for the art and skill of the trade. Many are realizing that shoes today are of lower quality than in recent centuries. This is due to the shift from handmade to mass-produced shoes. Mass-produced shoes are made quickly and cheaply, often with lower quality materials, to meet the ever-changing fashion and stylistic demands of the modern consumer.
Unsurprisingly, shoes today have extremely fast turnover rates. This often means that when one does happen to find a great shoe, it only takes a tear or a hole to “take out” an otherwise rare jewel in a world of cheaply made shoes. But more significant, items which hold sentimental value – say the Oxfords worn during Law School graduation, or the boots given by a parent or grandparent (now gone) – after being damaged, often do not get second chances and are tragically left in a closet or worse, discarded…
Fortunately, this does not have to be the case for our fellow Winston-Salemites! The day may come when the art and craftsmanship of cobblers is no more, but that day is not today.